Common wisdom says that the waves are funneled up the canyon, but that is not true - swells avoid canyons due to refraction.
Very cool! I wrote about Nazaré for Nautilus magazine a couple of years ago. We spoke with UCSD oceanographer Falk Feddersen as well as with Brazilian big wave surfer Maya Gabeira for the story. https://nautil.us/how-it-feels-to-surf-the-worlds-biggest-wave-245476/
Loved the article, thanks for sending! Small world, I’ve taken a class with Falk and he’s given a lot of feedback on one of my projects. I’ll actually be highlighting one of his papers here very soon.
oh cool! Look forward to reading about it.
Very cool! I wrote about Nazaré for Nautilus magazine a couple of years ago. We spoke with UCSD oceanographer Falk Feddersen as well as with Brazilian big wave surfer Maya Gabeira for the story. https://nautil.us/how-it-feels-to-surf-the-worlds-biggest-wave-245476/
Loved the article, thanks for sending! Small world, I’ve taken a class with Falk and he’s given a lot of feedback on one of my projects. I’ll actually be highlighting one of his papers here very soon.
oh cool! Look forward to reading about it.