The ocean holds countless stories, from the physics of perfect waves to the microscopic dramas playing out in every drop. Over the past few months, we've explored these narratives through a scientific lens, learning why kelp forests create glassy conditions and how pelicans surf waves more efficiently than we do.
The science behind our sessions runs deeper than most realize. Those wrapping waves at the point? They follow the same mathematical principles that bend light into the green flash you see at sunset. That offshore wind making the waves stand up? It's part of a daily thermal cycle that we can predict with impressive accuracy in San Diego.
Some findings challenge common wisdom. Swells at monster breaks like Nazaré don’t funnel up canyons, they actively avoid them. Other studies reveal that compostable surf products might not be as eco-friendly as we thought, degrading similarly to their petroleum-based counterparts.
Local scientists contribute significantly to our understanding of the ocean. In a study at CSU Long Beach, researchers used drones to document precisely how sharks and surfers share the same spaces, revealing patterns that both fascinate and reassure.
The ocean operates on scales from the microscopic to the planetary. Those distinctive ocean smells? They come from bacteria living on kelp, producing compounds that not only reach our noses but help form clouds over the ocean. Every breaking wave represents energy that might have traveled thousands of miles, sorted by period through dispersion until it reaches our coast as organized sets.
To our readers who've joined me in exploring these scientific depths - thank you. Your curiosity and engagement have made this journey into ocean science possible and fun. As we look toward another year of discovery, I want to hear from you. What mysteries of the ocean intrigue you most? Which aspects of surf science remain unclear? Your questions shape our future explorations, whether they concern the physics of barreling waves, the biology of your local breaks, or the chemistry of surf products. You can respond to any of my emails with your ideas, and I’ll get back to you with a short answer or an article.
If you've found value in these scientific explorations of surfing and the sea, consider sharing them with others who might appreciate this perspective. We're just getting started.