So interesting. I’ve been trying to learn much more lately about local geographical constraints and happenings that have impacts on waves. I think a lot of people look at Surfline and don’t question any further why the waves are bad or good etc.
Thanks Steven! There're are so many things that go into how a break does what it does. Even this article holds true for only some spots. The ocean is complex from scales of ocean basins down to individual atoms, but I firmly believe that being able to see and understand parts of what is going on around you in the water adds so much to the enjoyment of playing in it.
So interesting. I’ve been trying to learn much more lately about local geographical constraints and happenings that have impacts on waves. I think a lot of people look at Surfline and don’t question any further why the waves are bad or good etc.
Nice write up!
Thanks Steven! There're are so many things that go into how a break does what it does. Even this article holds true for only some spots. The ocean is complex from scales of ocean basins down to individual atoms, but I firmly believe that being able to see and understand parts of what is going on around you in the water adds so much to the enjoyment of playing in it.