Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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Why do some waves barrel?
 • Kevin Okun
4
How are waves formed?
 • Kevin Okun
6
How does an incoming or outgoing tide affect the waves?
 • Kevin Okun
What causes rip currents?
 • Kevin Okun
What do you want to know next?
 • Kevin Okun
Does kelp make a break more glassy?
 • Kevin Okun
2
Why does hot water help stingray stings?
Ask a non-surfer what animal they're most afraid of in the water, and you'll likely hear "sharks." Ask a surfer, and you'll likely get "stingrays…
 • 
Kevin Okun
Why is shoulder pain so common in surfers?
The average surf session involves far more paddling than actual wave riding.
 • 
Kevin Okun
6
How does a wetsuit affect your paddling?
A 2015 study by Jeff Nessler and colleagues at Cal State San Marcos investigated how wetsuits affect our paddling mechanics. While thicker suits like…
 • 
Kevin Okun
7
What's the difference between cold water and warm water wax?
The molecular structure of surf wax determines whether you're surfing or sliding.
 • 
Kevin Okun
6
Why should you wait 72 hours after it rains to surf?
In honor of the flu that is currently taking its sweet time to leave my body this week, let’s talk about some disgusting water down here in Southern…
 • 
Kevin Okun
2
How is wave energy measured?
Physics is all about energy.
 • 
Kevin Okun
How can we make faster fins?
Speed, specifically how fins can make us go faster, got some scientific attention recently.
 • 
Kevin Okun
5
Science of Surfing
Science of Surfing
An oceanographer's take on all things surfing. Delivered weekly, always free.

Science of Surfing

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