Science of Surfing

Science of Surfing

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How is wave height measured?
Take a friend to check out a break, and you are likely to disagree on the wave height.
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Kevin Okun
1
Why is paddling easier on a bigger board?
This one is going to get a big "duh" from everyone - of course it's a whole lot easier to paddle a bigger board.
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Kevin Okun
1
Where are the largest waves in the world?
I'm playing with technicalities here - I didn't say surfable waves in the title.
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Kevin Okun
2
Why does hot water help stingray stings?
Ask a non-surfer what animal they're most afraid of in the water, and you'll likely hear "sharks." Ask a surfer, and you'll likely get "stingrays…
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Kevin Okun
Why is shoulder pain so common in surfers?
The average surf session involves far more paddling than actual wave riding.
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Kevin Okun
6

February 2025

How does a wetsuit affect your paddling?
A 2015 study by Jeff Nessler and colleagues at Cal State San Marcos investigated how wetsuits affect our paddling mechanics. While thicker suits like…
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Kevin Okun
7
What's the difference between cold water and warm water wax?
The molecular structure of surf wax determines whether you're surfing or sliding.
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Kevin Okun
6
Why should you wait 72 hours after it rains to surf?
In honor of the flu that is currently taking its sweet time to leave my body this week, let’s talk about some disgusting water down here in Southern…
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Kevin Okun
2
How is wave energy measured?
Physics is all about energy.
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Kevin Okun

January 2025

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